According to the Jamaica Tourist Board, Jamaica saw a record number of visitors—over four million in 2024—is estimated to generate $5 billion in revenue in 2025. The Caribbean Island’s popularity has produced crowded resorts and beaches—not ideal if you’re searching for a vacation spot to relax and unwind. Most travelers fixate on well-known spots like Ocho Rios, Negril, and Montego Bay, which are known for their most sought-after properties, such as Half Moon Luxury Resort, and world-renowned attractions, including Dunn’s River Falls.
However, vacationers can avoid the throngs of tourists by staying on the northeast coast of Jamaica, specifically Portland.
“It’s Jamaica’s best-kept secret,” says Newton Nelson, guest services manager at the Geejam Hotel and a local Portland resident. “It’s equal parts luxury and unfiltered culture.”
A natural wonder with quieter beachesA two- to three-hour drive from Ocho Rios, Kingston, and Montego Bay, Portland is the greenest parish on the island due to its abundant rainfall, which helps maintain its lush vegetation.
Most of Portland’s attractions are spread out around the parish, providing a much quieter, relaxed vibe in comparison to the “party” areas frequented by tourists. And there are no large-scale international resorts like its neighbors, making it even more of an ideal escape if you are looking for a low-key place to recharge.
When it comes to beaches, Frenchmen’s Cove is the most well-known in the area, populated by more residents and visited by smaller groups of tourists. It is arguably one of the best beaches you will see on the island because you can unwind without paying for a spot on the beach or dealing with wandering vendors. While here, beachgoers can go to the nearby Le Pirate Café, which serves authentic Jamaican fare near a small lagoon with plenty of space to eat and take a break from the sun. Across the street, inside the Inn At The Cove, Vanessa’s Fine Foods serves seafood dishes such as shrimp curry, lobster, and escoveitch fish—all served, if you choose to, with a layered-rum Bob Marley drink for a proper sit-down meal.
When visiting Jamaica, travelers can head to the island’s northeast parish of Portland for a more traditional, laid-back atmosphere among residents, and without the crowds.
Photograph By Doug Pearson, Jon Arnold Images Ltd/Alamy
Instead of visiting the heavily-touristed Dunn’s River Falls, you can have a similar, intimate experience at Reach Falls, where it’s not uncommon to see people snap an Instagram-worthy pic with the iconic waterfall as the backdrop. It can take up to an hour to get to Dunn’s River Falls, but it’s only a short 10-minute walk to Reach Falls. Without standing in a long line, adventurous travelers ascend to the top of a rock (which may require a guide) above the Rabbit Hole, a hidden underground cave, to jump into a natural pool.
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A minimalist, luxe retreat for creatives and yogisPortland has long been a known retreat for celebrities, including British rapper Stormzy and Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton. However, high-profile figures often travel by helicopter from Negril or Ocho Rios to Ian Fleming International Airport—the only airport in the parish—to save time on the drive and to vacation away from prying eyes.
Don’t expect large luxury properties in Portland. Visitors will find accommodations with fewer guest occupancy, making their stay more intimate. Music lovers should consider staying at the 52-acre, six-room Pompey Jamaica, owned by Diplo, an American DJ. Creatives and celebrities flock to the property, located in Portland’s capital city of San Antonio, not only because of its secluded location, but also for its industry-standard recording studio, yoga pavilion, cold plunge and sauna, private gym, and private trails to go horseback riding.
The Geejam Hotel’s cabins are tucked into its on-site garden in Port Antonio, located in Portland Parish. American DJ Diplo would often hang out and work on music at the six-acre boutique hotel. Diplo is the owner of the 50-acre Pompey Jamaica.
Photograph By ALFONSO DURAN, The New York Times/Redux
Pompey doesn’t have an on-site restaurant, but private chefs from Stush in the Bush, a restaurant in St. Anne’s, serve guests plant-based meals. A sustainable garden, bar, retro games, and an outdoor deck are other amenities featured here.
For travelers seeking a holistic wellness experience, Portland offers several options, including The Star Arcanum in San Antonio. The unique, off-the-grid yoga retreat helps guests realign their mind, body, and spirit to alleviate stress—all done inside one of their eco-villas.
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Meet and dine with the locals If you are a fan of Jamaica’s famous jerk barbecue, then you should add a trip to the Boston Jerk Center to your itinerary. Why? It’s the birthplace of the jerk cooking style in Jamaica. Even though locals will tell you there are plenty of places to taste or get good jerk chicken, it’s a excellent opportunity to see where it all began. While other Jamaican cities may have their own unique party vibe, visitors in Portland can visit the parish’s best restaurants, usually filled with residents rather than tourists, to experience a local party.
“Woody’s [Low Bridge Place] is great for burgers,” says Suzanne and Michelle Roseau, owners of Two Sisters and residents of St. Ann’s parish. “Be sure to make a stop at Natural Mystic Bar, it’s a roadside rum bar, and there’s a Jamaican street party on Sundays.”
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Boston Jerk Center is a collection of open-air food stalls that specialize in jerk cooking in Boston Bay, considered the birthplace of spicy jerk seasoning.
Photograph By Alfonso Duran,The New York Times/Redux
Where to stay in PortlandPortland doesn’t have many all-inclusive hotels and resorts like other cities or parishes in Jamaica. However, tourists can check into boutique hotels, such as the Geejam Hotel, and book a Rumba Room with views overlooking the ocean. For a more private experience, consider booking a spacious villa through a third-party platform, such as Airbnb, Vrbo, or Avalon, which offers guests a on-site staff, including a chef and housekeeper.
Dana Givens is a New York City-born lifestyle journalist who covers travel, food, and culture. Follow her on Instagram.